Italy - Day Twenty Two Dinner

Colline Emiliane is known for its bolognese on tender egg noodles. While the menu has plenty of options this dish isn't to be missed.

Italy - Day Twenty Two Lunch

If you find yourself near the Vatican and looking for a lunch spot - try Da Benito e Gilberto al Falco on Via del Falco, 19. Forget looking for the sign - it is a very small seafood restaurant that is easy to miss. The seafood is fresh and delicious.

Italy - Day Twenty Two

OMG - literally.

Today we toured both St. Peter's Cathedral and the Vatican.

St. Peter's Basilica - what can you say? This church was intended on being the biggest (it measures all of the World's churches on its floor) and the best (masterpieces in oil were relocated to the only church large enough to hold them S. Maria Delgli Angeli and replaced by exact replicas in mosaic to (unlike oil painting) last forever. The piazza S. Peter is gigantic. It was originally designed to 'surprise' the visitor who stumbled upon it after walking through the area's narrow streets. Thanks to Mussolini and his Via della Concilizaione - the approach is grandeur but the surprise is lost.

The Vatican is its own country - and I believe the smallest in the World. I'd guess it is probably the richest. Wealth and power has been seated here since the the Pope's abandoned their original home at the Papal Archbasilica of St. John Lateran (S. Giovanni in Laterano). The Archbacilica is (still) the cathedral of the Church of Rome, the seat of the Bishop of Rome and papal throne. It may be the smallest country but it makes for a huge museum - impossible to see in a short period of time.

Italy - Day Twenty One Dinner

Antico Arco - located in Trastevere area of Rome. Yummy!

Italy - Day Twenty One Spolia

To understand Rome - you have to recognize and understand the historical importance of reusing old materials or structures for new purposes. Sometimes the reuse is structural and other times it is simply decorative. Some times the entire structure is reused for an entirely different purpose and is maintained and protected because of its new found purpose.

Once you recognize spolia - you see it everywhere.

Marcello Teatro is used as a private residence and luxury condos.

Arch near S. Giorgia in Velabro used a defensive fort.

Modern home built into the walls of a Roman bath.

Spolia used to decorate in inner courtyard of Villa.

Italy - Day Twenty One

Today is what life is all about - trying something foreign, learning new things, and enjoying friends and family along the way - AND it only took me fifty years to figure it out.

We started the day with our Context Tours docent Philip Ditchfield at the Temple Hercules Victor at Piazza Bocca della Verta. Also home to the church of S. Maria and the 'mouth of truth'. Piazza Bocca sits on the east side of the Tiber river near the Circo Massimo. Philip took us on a walking tour to see classic Rome.

A docent brings the place to life and shares all of its secrets. It is wonderful experience even if Philip posses a British accent with its slightly tarnished sense of humor which did completely fit Rome.

Today - we roamed through Rome's city streets north from the Piazza to the area near the Pantheon and Basilica di S. Maria- stopping along the way to visit churches, crypts and ruins. It is always fascinating to return to street or place with a docent. I am amazed at what I missed on the first visit.

We literally climbed to the top of Basilica di S. Nicola in Carcere and stood eye-to-eye with the top portal of one of the three temples that once stood on this spot. Most of the ancient architecture preserved today was saved by being used for other purposes in the intervening centuries. Pagan temples were often used as churches, prisons, forts or in some cases homes. Items preserved as 'Spolia' (today's word from our docent) - that is items taken from one building to create another.

In Rome - Spolia was the way of life. Each century quarried materials from the great architectural creations of the previous generations. These materials were then used to create their own masterpieces (at a lower cost and faster). For example: some of the marble that once covered much of the Colosseum is now on the steps of St. Peters. In Rome - if you look closely almost every building contains precious spolia from the past.

Italy Day Twenty - Dinner

Tonight we dined at Grano (Piazza Rondanini, 53) which is very near the Pantheon in the heart of old Rome.

If you have a stomach for tripe (no pun intended) then this is the place for you. The tripe here is fantastic and the only place to try it for those who hate the idea.

Italy - Day Twenty

Photo: St. Peter's Cathedral at Vatican City

Photo: Palazzo De Guistizia (Hall of Justice) completed in 1910.

Photo: Vittorio Emanuele II Monument

Every city has wonderful neighborhoods to explore on foot. One of the best in Rome is Trastevere district. The area is located on the west side of the Tiber River from old Rome and south of Vatican City. Not only is it home to some of the best shops and restaurants - it also boasts some of the best views overlooking Rome from Glancolense Park.

Italy - Day Twenty Lunchtime

Another great benefit of hiring good local docents besides the education you receive during your trip is tips on the 'best' dining spots for locals.

Today's treat - Pierluigi located on Piazza de' Ricci 144. The fresh fish (and I do mean fresh) isn't to be missed.

Italy - Day Twenty

Photo: Arch of Severus AD 203

Photo: Arch of Titus 82 A.D.

Photo: Arch of Constantine dedicated in 315 and reused (Spolia) parts of earlier buildings.

Photo: Coliseum 80 AD

If you follow my writing on this blog about my travels - you know that I am a fan of Context Tours and their docents. They simply are the best.

Today's 3 hour tour of the Coliseum and Roman Forum (Roma Antica) with archaeologist Alessandro Celari was truly fantastic. The girls weren't the only ones lost in the rhythm and sing-song of his italian voice as he took us back in history. It was easy to be captivated.

Alessandro took us from the days of Nero's Golden Palace and the lake that once stood at the location of the Coliseum (one of the 7 wonders of the World) - to the spot of Rome's Senate where Julius Caesar stood in the Curia Julia at the Roman Forum. The Forum is also home to the location where in 44 B.C. Julius Caesar was cremated after his assassination. Even today - people still leave fresh flowers on this site.

Rome - Monks Singing

https://vr.shapeservices.com/listen.php?hash=a53a04ad5838bcf91108ea14f8704c8e25a871595d7b3b0c5

Monks singing at S. Martini al Monticello near the Trajan Baths in Rome.



___
Sent via VR+

Italy - Dessert

Vino e Camino

Piazza dell'Oro, 6

Did I mention the desserts? The jury is still out on the 'best' dessert during our trip. But these - were easily on the list of finals.

Italy - Eat Here

Vino e Carmino

This rustic style eatery's original restaurant is located in Bracciano, north of Rome and their location on Piazzo dell'Oro is a welcome addition. The restaurant is located near the Tiber river and a little difficult to find (even our return cab driver got lost).

To add to tonight's delight - Rome's main thoroughfare Corso Vittorio Emanuele was completely shutdown by 100's of bicycle riders protesting pollution producing gasoline/diesel engines. Our two taxi cabs stood still in the gridlock. Bicycles were victorious and we walked the last 1 km pollution-free.

Vino e Carmino was well worth the walk. The food is divine. The service is friendly, energetic and fun.

As we sipped Brandy at the insistence of our waiter - I was happy to learn taxi service had been restored to take use home to our hotel.

Italy - Day Nineteen (Cont.)

The Museo dell'Ara Pacis is a modern day construction by architect Richard Meier to protect the precious Ara Pacis. The Ara Pacis was constructed in 13 B.C. to honour Augustus' return from Spain and Gaul. The Altar was buried by the flooding of the Tiber river and forgotten. Luckily it was rediscovered and is now protected from the elements.

Like the Louvre's pyramid - this modern building constructed to protect the Altar isn't a favorite among locals. For visitors - it is a delight.

Italy - Day Nineteen

Photo: Bernini's Pluto and Proserpina 1621-22

Today's adventure takes us to the northern part of Rome to the Villa Borghese located outside the old walls of Rome and seated in a wonderful park.

The Villa Pinciana was built to house a remarkable collection of art. Though most of these works were ruthlessly obtained by Cardinal Scipione Borghese - nephew to Pope Paul V - the Borghese Pope.

Overflowing with priceless masterpieces - both sculpture, artifacts, and paintings - the museum and surround park is a nice break from the noisy city. Reservations are a must for your visit. Sadly for us - photos are no longer allowed inside of the Villa.

View of the Villa through the Borghese Aviary

Borghese family symbol - the dragon - on top of garden gate in the Borghese Gardens

Italy - Day Eighteen

The crew has arrived in Roma. It is wonderful to see familiar faces.

Tired and hot - I ran the them through the city streets in hopes to fight off some of the jet lag apparent in their faces and mannerisms. All they want to do is rest and sleep. American Airlines and Trenitalia have drained their spirits and energy. I am left with lifeless vessels no matter how familiar they are to me.

It is fascinating. I am the outsider. I have adjusted to the time (plus seven hours), the temperature (hot and humid), the walking (trembling legs and threatening stairways), and most of all the jet lag (it's remnants remain as a foggy memory).

My internal clock is running on Italian time. My motor is an idling Ferrari (actually more like an Alpha Romeo or at my worst moments a Fiat Panda). My taste is made of vine ripe tomatoes, Mozzarella di bufalo and Percorino cheese, Nastro Azzurro birra, and Neapolitan pizza crust. My sight is a new reality show of daily living unable to be replicated by television. My touch is ancient places with origins thousands of years ago - where live literally transformed unintentionally into priceless art.

We walk. The sun bears down. We walk. The breeze caresses. We walk. The crowds encroach. We walk.

I can feel them glaring at my back.

I am an outsider - someplace between both places - home and Italy, and not fitting into either. It is uncomfortable. It is nice. I like it. It is refreshing. It is living.

Fifty arrives shortly. One-half a century celebrated in a place where centuries mean nothing. Centuries are equal to seconds here. They pass.

My life is young here. I am alive and awakening.

Italy - Day Eighteen Dinner

Tonight's dinner spot was chosen for its proximity to our home in Rome - the IQ Hotel. Today is a travel day from the USA for most of our party - meaning an early dinner and off to bed to adjust to the new time zone (and jet lag).

Our local foodie, Maureen Fant, has complied a collection of restaurant to tempt our waistlines and pallets during our visit to Rome.

La Matriciana (www.lamatriciana.it)

This traditional restaurant was founded in 1870 and still family-run. Good Rome-style home cooking. Yummy.

Italy - Day Eighteen (Cont)

View from Michelangelo's Piazza del Campidoglio in the shadows of Victor Emmanuel Monument (Italy's first King).

Trajan's Column located in the Imperial Forum and the nearby Markets of Trajan.

Chiesa dei Santi Domenico e Sisto - relief from doorway (Photo)

Rome is an amazing city to visit. Eye-candy everywhere. Every walk, every route is filled with mythological Sirens tempting you to forget your destination and to lose yourself in the city's alleyways. Like a child in a candy store - it is difficult to chose which sights to visit and which views to capture with my Canon S90 camera.