Monday, May 16, 2011

Italy - Day Seven

Dark clouds rolled in and out of Isola di Procida today. The temperatures fell quickly making me wish I had exchanged my shorts and sport shirt for something more substantial before leaving the apartment.

Today our itinerary consist of exploring the few remaining streets in Procida which we have not walked. Most of our conversation centers around the debate of which streets we have and have not walked. We agree on six before lock our apartment door.

Via Cavour cuts through the island from North to South. It runs through the Starza district and connects L'Olmo and Cottimo districts of the island. That is our first destination - the residential and farming area of the island. Along the walk we are reminded that everyone here gardens - the smallest spot of land has tomatoes, artichokes, peppers, or squash. In each yard we see lemon tree - branches sagging against their supports from the burden of lemons. Lemon trees must be a mandatory requirement for owning a home here.

Behind walls and gates - we discover hidden orchards in the Starza district. These gardens have grapes and apricots added to their inventory. Secret pedestrian pathways connect Via Cavour to the Chiese (read: Church) Ss. Annunziata - saving parishioners a few steps and time rushing to Holy Mass. This find has us excited with discovery - yes, we are both modern day Robinson Crusoe.

Cottimo district is dotted with larger farms and estates - both new and old. It is the northern-most point of Isola di Procida. Here lemon trees and grape vines rule the landscape. Each street ends abruptly as land runs into water and we are forced to retrace our steps back to the main thoroughfare Via S.S. Annunziatia. Even with these double takes of each streets - each one meets us with surprising new views.

Finished with Cottimo we head back towards the eastern city center with two goals - two remaining streets and the Post Office. The Post Office continues to allude us. It is clearly marked on each map back in our apartment - like a master magician's disappearing act it vanishes each time we seek it out.

Via Marconi and Via Dante give way to concrete apartment houses designed by the Romans. This district like those to the east remind us that 10,000 people live on Isola di Procida.

Success! We are proud as peacocks for locating the Post Office. Merlin must be asleep with the rest of the city natives and failed to cast his disappearing spell on the building.

It is afternoon. It is time for our daily visit to the Porto district and our wifi equipped bar for an icy Nastra Azzurro and the condiments (usually chips, peanuts, or croutons).

Filled with cheer and accomplishment, we return home to fill the apartment with cooking smells, music and good conversation. The 'Italian Way' of living seeps further into our bodies.






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